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How to build your very own PS4 adaptive controller

For this page I assume you have obtained all parts from the parts list page and printed the 3D printed parts.

Note: this is how I assembled it, but I’m an idiot sometimes, you might find a better way to do things.

Step 1: disassemble the controller

The controller is held together with 4 small screws on the back. Remove them and pry open the front and back shell of the controller.

Remove the 4 screws from the back.

Once open, remove the small flex cable from the PCB leading to the USB port and remove the PCB. The PCB will have the 2 vibration motors soldered on to it, either cut or de-solder those wires as we won’t be using them.

Now remove the USB board from the back shell.

You also need to de-solder the joysticks from the board

Step 2: Fixate the PCB and USB board to the ‘PCB holder’ 3D print.

Either screw, glue, tape or otherwise persuade the PCB to stay on the PCB holder 3D print.

Important: the side with the soldering pads should be facing up as we will need to access it later.

Your result should look like this.

Notice I also placed one of the M3 nuts into the hole at the back. you might need to apply some force to get it in.

Step 3: prepare the cover plate

Start placing the 3.5mm sockets on the cover plate and lock them with the provided nuts.

Important: The ground pin (the one pin sticking out on top) should be facing away from the center (so facing up on the top row, facing down on the bottom row). You might also want to bend this pin towards the back of the socket.

Bend the ground (top) pin.

Step 4: solder the ground planes

All except 2 sockets share the same ground plane. You need to solder all the ground pins (remember, the top pins) together except for the sockets for L1 and R1 as these will go to a different ground pin on the PCB. I just stripped a cable and soldered the copper wiring across, bridging the L1 and R1 sockets with a insulated piece of cable.

Make sure the 2 ground planes (top and bottom) are connected to each other.

Now connect the L1 and R1 ground pins to each other.

Step 5: Soldering the sockets to the appropriate pins on the PCB

Now you need to solder the sockets to the solder pads on the PCB. I used the Ground and ‘left’ audio pin to make my connections (this way it will also work with MONO jacks). Make sure you are consistent with this as your accessories will be using the same scheme.

These are the bottom pins if you place them as in the image above.

Here’s the schematic on where the wires should go to on the pads on the PCB (Button:label on the PCB) :



L1: PC3 and L1 ground to VDD
R1: PB8 and R1 ground to VDD
L2: PA4
R2: PA5
L3: S0
R3: SS

PS button: PD3
Touch button: PC0

Triangle: PA10
Circle: PB1
Cross: PB0
Square: SCL

All ground except L1 and R1 ground should be connected to soldering pad labeled ‘GND’.

L1 and R1 should be connected to soldering pad labeled ‘VDD’.

Now for the Joysticks:

Every joystick has 2 potentiometers with 3 pins each. You should solder every set to 1 of the sockets marked L or R on the front panel

Top row:

Left: open (shared ground, no need to solder extra wire)
Middle: To ‘right’ audio pin on one of the L sockets (The one below the ground pin)
Right: To ‘left’ audio pin on the socket (the same one every other cable goes to)

Right row:

Top: Open (shared ground, no need to solder)
Middle: To ‘right’ audio pin (the one below the ground pin on socket)
Bottom: To ‘left’ audio pin on the socket.

Of course I had to write this tutorial AFTER I soldered everything… But I hope these pictures can help you after all. If you have any questions, don’t be afraid to ask them. My info is in the contact page.

Left Joystick, Top row
Right Joystick, Right and top row.
My messy soldering job.

After you had fun with that, it’s time to put everything together… or is it?

Step 6: testing!

It is time to test your connections. for this you might want to build one of the accessories. But you need a button attached to a 3.5mm jack.

Connect the PCB to a computer and search for ‘joystick’ and open the game pad calibarion panel.

Here are the numbers that should correspond to the sockets you’ve just soldered:

Square: 1 
Cross: 2
Circle: 3
Triangle: 4

L1: 5
R1: 6
L2: 7
R2: 8


L3: 11
R3: 12

PS button: 13
Touch button: 14

Step 7: Putting it all together.

Make sure the M3 nuts are secured in place on the PCB holder and 2 inside the box.

Then slide the PCB holder in the box and secure with the bolt.

Now place the front panel and secure this with the 2 bolts.

You now have a ps4 adaptive controller.

I know this guide is a bit lacking in details but that’s because I had to write it from memory after it was all made. If I ever make a new one I’ll definitely update this guide.